When gazing down from Alfama upon the postcard-worthy views of city and river, a grin is almost inevitable. As one of the only areas to survive the 18th century earthquake that almost flattened the Portuguese capital, Alfama is a step back in time. It’s full of unpretentious and unaffected appeal, a beauty which stems from years upon years of organic, segregated development. Here, cobbled medieval lanes snake their way up steep stairs, past sharp turns and chocolate-box nooks and crannies. Tightly-packed little doll-like houses, with little windows, little doors and brightly coloured facades are a sight to behold, while newly renovated houses sit beside older, ramshackle abodes. In the distance, a foghorn sounds from a departing ship and a curious light spills into the magical view below - a town awash in shades of pink, yellow and blue sitting before a never-ending shoreline. In the evening, hop on one of the trams and you’ll be in the centre of town in under 10 minutes.