With a history that goes back to Herod the Great (he built a huge reservoir here, the impressive ruins of which can still be seen), the district of Mamilla to the south-west of the Old City has traditionally been a cosmopolitan area and a place of commerce. These days, its home to plush hotels, chic gated enclaves, a leafy promenade and the Mamilla Mall, half a mile of luxury stores and smart places to eat and drink. Touted as Jerusalem's answer to Rodeo Drive, this is much more accessible to the average traveller than its reputation suggests. If the plethora of big brands aren't to your taste, then you're still sure to be tempted by the wealth of restaurants, pastry shops and pavement cafes. And despite the shops selling designer watches and trainers, there's no chance of forgetting where you are. Arches carved from pale, sandy masonry abound, reflecting the style and materials of the city's vernacular architecture. Just watch your elbows in case you bump into one of the expensive sculptures on plinths that line the mall. It's amazing it doesn't happen more often, what with every other corner offering up distractingly stunning views of the crenellated towers of the Old City walls.